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The Sunless Tan
Although the self tanning products were first introduced in the sixties, they did not enjoy the lofty sales the manufacturers' had hoped but instead gained a rather infamous reputation for being splotchy, orangey and smelly. Mention of Coppertone's first self-tanner, QT, 40 years later still produces exclamations about orange and streaky skin. Now self tanners line the shelves across America at stores like Walgreens and Wal-Mart. How do they work and how have they improved? The tans of self tanning and airbrush tanning products are produced by a reaction between the sugar derivative, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), and the protein keratin found on the surface of the skin. The "browning" effect that results is a common chemical reaction between certain sugars and proteins called the "Maillard" reaction. Louis-Camille Maillard first described this process in 1912 and it is the cause of much of the browning that occurs during the manufacture and storage of foods, including the golden brown color of beer. Master chefs have long understood and perfected the use of this reaction. Urban legends abound on how the reaction of dihydroxyacetone with the skin was discovered, some even claim that Hollywood stars knew about it in the 1920s. On skin, the Maillard reaction takes 4 to 6 hours to visibly emerge into a golden tan. It then continues to develop over the next 24 hours. The color that results varies slightly from individual to individual, just as UV tans will differ, according to natural skin tones. With some products lighter and darker shades can be achieved according to personal preference. Quality and duration of the resulting tan are dependent on many factors. You want the "head chef's" attention to detail, not the fast-order cook's! Many salons offer a solution with a bronze tint, similar to the tanning creams. This tint is usually composed of either FDC colors, walnut or carmel. This bronze tint is for instant gratification only and does not contribute to the ultimate Maillard reaction. The tint can come off on clothes, linen, etc., and is easily washed out of most fabrics. It will also wash off skin in the first shower. Natural has no tint to impact aggressive work outs, under garments, dresses or linen. A professional salon should offer the DHA solution in Natural also, to accommodate today's busy active lifestyles. DHA products have improved in recent years and are light years away from the early days of Coppertone's QT. Tans develop into more natural-appearing brown or golden hues, as opposed to the orange tones observed with the older formulations. Higher quality supplies of DHA and better technology allow better penetration and coverage of the skin. Although both UV and DHA tans occur on the outer layer of the skin called the epidermis, they are completely different processes. Whereas UV tans rely upon melanin to produce the tanning of the skin, DHA relies upon keratin proteins to produce the coveted shades of bronze. The skin is the largest organ of the body. The outermost layer, the epidermis, is the waterproof protector of the body against an invasion of bacteria, viruses, spores, toxins, contaminants and other attackers. It serves not only as a barrier to keep fluids and salts in but to keep water and germs out. Over a million new cells a day are produced in the bottom basil layer of the epidermis and they continually push the cells above them to the surface. These are kerotinocytes, comprising 85% of the cell mass, which have a primary function of producing and filling themselves with keratin proteins. As these cells move up, they die and flatten in shape. At the very surface of the skin they are little more than keratin scales which eventually flake off and reveal the layer below. The oil, sebaceous and sweat glands combine to provide the oily encasements of the keratin as well as the acid mantle present on the surface of the skin. Oily characteristics promote water retention and the acid mantle protects against living organisms, such as bacteria and fungus. Skin sheads about every 2 weeks. As DHA reacts with only the very surface layer of the outer corneum stratum and does not penetrate into this layer, a DHA tan depends on the condition and care of the very surface of the skin. As you can see, this surface is irregular, not smooth and uniform. The better the quality of the DHA product, as well as the condition of the skin and the proper preparation of the skin, the better the DHA tan. Tans will last anywhere from 4 or 5 days to well over a week, depending on the different variables of products and skin. Tans lasting up to two weeks are possible but only under ideal circumstances, including moisturizing and the use of extender lotions such as MAINTAIN. Be aware that with any DHA tan, regardless of the brand, the tan does NOT provide UV protection. Sunscreens are still necessary.
Airbrush Tanning
Spray Tanning Booths
Self Tanning Products
We lovingly compare the results of self-tanning lotions, gels or mousses with using an oven mitt to paint your car as opposed to using professional airbrushing equipment. Copper tone ushered in the sunless tan era, beginning in the 60's, where we tried to look tan without the harmful effects of the sun and the hassles and time of basking. Unfortunately many encounters with sunless tanners sent women scurrying to find trousers and long sleeve shirts instead of the summer attire they had hoped to slip into. The orange, splotchy, and inconsistent results of sunless tanning products are issues the cosmetic industry has attempted to solve over the ensuing years. Today there exists a vast difference between self-tanning products beyond packaging and texture. Prices range from $10 to $90 for a small tube or pump bottle. Interestingly, results don't necessarily correlate with price. Applicators range from gloves to pads to sponges. Results differ between brand, customers, and even from application to application on the same body. Generally, self-tanners are messy and sticky for several hours after application. Often there is that distinctive "self-tanner" smell. Some self-tanning products have temporary bronzes for your convenience in application, but your inconvenience if they come off on your clothes and linen. Hard to reach areas and the absorption differences between elbows and legs, for example, can make precise application difficult. If orange tones appear, it is either too much DHA, a lower product quality, or how the specific brand reacts with your individual skin. The longevity of the tan is generally only 2 or 3 days and the products must constantly be reapplied to maintain color. While technology and methods of processing DHA have improved vastly since the 60's, these are still concerns that may arise with modern self-tanning products. The best use of the these products seems to be for spot coloring of smaller areas such as the face or legs. So with all these issues why are we seeing "fake" tans on everyone from Paris Hilton to J Lo to Jennifer Aniston? With the advent of airbrush tanning and the quality of products available for professional use, everyone can now experience that same beautiful golden glow being worn by the rich and famous. Properly trained airbrush tan technicians, using premium products, produce flawless and natural looking tans the self-tanners are still aspiring to.
The 1960's brought the advent of self tanning lotions and creams to achieve the much coveted suntan when the sun wasn't available. Legends of those notorious orange and streaky tans persist to this day. The potential of the active ingredient (DHA) to produce tan skin was recognized, despite the disappointing deficiencies of applying lotions and creams. Products that delivered uneven and inconsistent tans, that were often too orange or yellow, not to mention smelly, were the only alternative to UV tans for decades. Around the year 2000 it was clear that not only had there been substantial improvements in the application methods of the tanning products, but the products themselves had changed in form and quality. Benefiting from innovative scientific research, as well as the advancement of manufacturing technology, tanning products that produced beautiful, consistent results begin to show promise. For a detailed explanation of how the skin turns a tan color with the active ingredient, dihydroxyacetone, please see The Sunless Tan. Airbrush tanning is the use of an airbrush artist's equipment to precisely and uniformly apply the DHA solution over the surface of the skin in the form of a mist. No less than ten or fifteen people across America claim to have "invented" the idea of using an airbrush to apply liquid tanning solutions to the skin, and perhaps they all did discover it rather simultaneously. The equipment itself ranges from precise instruments and compressed air used by artists, to HPLV systems traditionally used in industrial applications painting larger surface areas, such as automobiles. Spray booth tanning is another recent innovation in the application of DHA solutions. Instead of a customized application by a technician, it more resembles a car being sprayed at a car wash, utilizing as many as 50 nozzles simultaneously. Spray tanning solutions can contain a water-soluble bronzer that imparts an immediate tan color, while the tan resulting from the Maillard reaction is developing. The temporary bronze tint will wash off with the next shower. Most professional salons will also offer Natural, a DHA solution without any bronze tint added. The Natural solution develops the same tan as the Bronze solution, but avoids the nuisance sometimes associated with the bronze tint. There is no UVA or UVB radiation associated with airbrush tanning. As the skin naturally exfoliates, the color fades, similar to how a UV tan fades.There are many factors that may impact the quality, color and duration of airbrush tans. Professional factors include quality of DHA solution, the training and experience of the technician, consumer education, and the caliber of equipment used. Lifestyle factors include things such as frequency of activities which cause sweating, swimming in chlorinated or salt water, length of baths, and frequency of shaving and/or exfoliating. Other factors that have the potential to impact the wear ability of airbrush tans are skin related, including skin condition (dryness, sun/UV damage, disease), skin Ph, and an individual's skin regeneration and sloughing patterns. The use of other products can also detract from or enhance airbrush tanning results. The use of certain soaps, placement of fragrances, and prescription drugs or medications such as Accutane, can potentially impair tanning results. Products such as PREPARE Full Body Exfoliate and Sluff Wipes will eliminate some adverse skin issues prior to an airbrush tanning session. The use of a tan extender such as MAINTAIN and regular moisturizing will enhance and extend airbrush tans. Bella has lists of DOs and DON'Ts, but an educated, well-trained airbrush tanning technician is essential to creating happy and delighted airbrush tanning customers.
With an eye on the millions of dollars spent on sunless tanning products marketed by companies such as Clinique, Estee Lauder, and Revlon every year and an understanding of the types of application issues associated with them, Mystic Tan, Inc., entered into a development project with a research firm in 1997 to build a sunless tanning booth utilizing a misting process to apply tanning solution to the entire body. Mystic Tan became the first company to develop and market a UV free spray tanning booth.Costing between $30,000 to $40,000 each for salon operators, the arrival of the spray tanning booths created quite a buzz. The spray booths are similar to the tanning beds in time required, 20 to 30 minutes from start to finish. You will find the pricing between $25 and $50 a session. The advantage over creams and lotions is that the spray goes everywhere including those hard to get areas (as long as you follow directions, not like the Friends' episode where Ross kept getting tan on one side but not the other). With the solution containing one or several types of alcohol as major ingredients, the dry time is short. It is the tanner's responsibility to quickly wipe off extra solution, inspect their bodies and quickly catch any drips before they dry and turn into the final tan. While simpler than the creams, the results of spray booth tanning can be quite similar. Imagine the difference between having your car washed at the corner gas station and having it hand detailed.The issues with the booths stem from their features. The 50 plus nozzles spray indiscriminately, not knowing the difference between your face and your legs, or about areas that should be naturally lighter, or your personal preferences. There is no awareness of differences of body sizes and shapes or skin tones; whether you resemble the Terminator, Snow White or Shirley Temple, it's all the same to the nozzles. As such, there is always excess spray that must be wiped off in order to avoid drip lines and blotchiness. Accumulation on the hands and feet is difficult to avoid, and may cause orange splotches. The presence of alcohol and other agents added for quick drying, makes the solution especially formulated for the spray booths somewhat harsh on the skin.Since 1997 there have been many companies jumping on the spray booth bandwagon, producing all sorts of variations claiming to have none of the flaws of the last guy's version. The salespeople present their latest and greatest spray tan booths with the most glowing of accolades. Up to this point in time, the salon owners who own them and the consumers who have tried them, tend be less enthusiastic than the salespeople who sell them and the companies who manufacture them.
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Bad Sunless Tans... Enough Said!
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